A world class destination made famous initially through the exploits of Fred Nicole, Dave Graham and many others who put up many of the original hard problems. Some of the best granite in world in a beautiful country.
Accommodation can be expensive although relatively affordable group accommodation can be found through Airbnb. We (Fatneck and The Scouse Helm Massive) stayed here which worked out at £60 per person for 5 nights. It was perfectly situated for Chironico and Cresciano. Food is relatively expensive but beer and fags are as cheap as France.
Cresciano - Classic granite and conditions dependant. Stunning lines and beautiful slopers! Most bouldering is in one spread out collection of blocks along a hillside about the size of a large area in Fontainebleau. One used to be able to park at the top of the hill but this is no longer allowed and a stiff 45 minute uphill walk is required. It is possible to drop pads and people at the top then drive down and leave the car. Winter bouldering area as relatively low and can get very hot from March onwards.
Chironico - Vast area of brilliant granite blocks of all different shapes and sizes. Something for everyone in a fantastic alpine setting. Many different areas and various parking spots, all detailed in the relevant guide (see below). Higher than Cresciano but not as high as Magic Wood, thus a spring/autumn venue.
Magic Wood - A jumble of giant boulders in a valley-side forest, above a river. boulders near the river are incredibly smooth and frictionless, while those higher up the slopes have a bit more texture. Lots of hard stuff. High up so more of a summer venue than Cresciano and Chironico.
Gottard Pass -
Engelberg - Spread out boulders with problems up to V15. One of the local boulders created a site to detail most of the problems. http://www.boulderberg.com/
Details about when to climb at the different areas is given in the area. Whilst there we found Google weather to be the most accurate for forecasts.
Guide books to Cresciano, Chironico and Gottard Pass available here and at Ostello Cresciano in Cresciano
Magic Wood Topo (link at top right as of writing).
Further info about bouldering in the Ticino area is available here